NORTH FACE STANDARD ROUTE
NORTH FACE MT KENYA CLIMB – June to October
The North Face standard route starts from Kami Hut, at 4300 m, after Shipton’s Camp. If you are planning to get to the top, you need to take 7 to 8 days. When taking the North Face, you will have to overnight at Firmin Tower, either putting up a tent or bivouac. If you wish to traverse the Gate Of Mist to Nelion, you will need crampons.
The North Face route starts from Shipton’s Camp or from Kami Hut at 0330 hrs. It is a 2 hr. hike to the base of climbing with the start being Grade IV+. The first two pitches are easy for scrambling; another Grade III, then Grade 11 and a Grade IV to get to the amphitheatre. From there, it is an easy walk to the base of Firmin Tower. Two routes emerge here; one route up the Tower is quite tricky and about Grade V in a small gully. The other is around the tower, easier but longer.
After that, you come to the knife edge. Here, do a Grade IV+ pitch and another Grade IV before you come to a traverse. Consequently, it leads you to the Shipton’s notch. Rocks are quite loose and need to be handled with care. After you are through with Shipton’s notch, you will then reach Batian at 5,199 m.
After summiting, you then abseil down and do a lot of down climbing. This is the longest climb with 23 pitches. This route is best done from June to early October.
01
Nairobi – Old Moses Camp 3300 m (10,890 ft.)
Leave Nairobi at 8:00 am for drive to Nanyuki, which normally takes 4 hours. Then, proceed to Mt Kenya National Park Sirimon gate. After a picnic lunch, we follow the track uphill for 10 kms. Fork left at the junction to reach Old Moses camp, situated at 3,300 m. The ascent from Sirimon gate to Old Moses is 690 m.
The ascent from Sirimon gate to Old Moses is 690 m.
Nairobi – Old Moses Camp 3300 m (10,890 ft.)
Leave Nairobi at 8:00 am for drive to Nanyuki, which normally takes 4 hours. Then, proceed to Mt Kenya National Park Sirimon gate. After a picnic lunch, we follow the track uphill for 10 kms. Fork left at the junction to reach Old Moses camp, situated at 3,300 m. The ascent from Sirimon gate to Old Moses is 690 m.
The ascent from Sirimon gate to Old Moses is 690 m.
02
Shipton’s Camp 4236 m (13,898 ft.)
During this day, we will hike through the Liki Valley via Mackinder Valley to Shipton’s Camp for 7 – 8 hours. Of course lunch is served on route. At Shipton’s Camp, you will have splendid views of the north faces of Nelion and Batian peaks. Enjoy your well earned dinner here and camp overnight.
Shipton’s Camp 4236 m (13,898 ft.)
During this day, we will hike through the Liki Valley via Mackinder Valley to Shipton’s Camp for 7 – 8 hours. Of course lunch is served on route. At Shipton’s Camp, you will have splendid views of the north faces of Nelion and Batian peaks. Enjoy your well earned dinner here and camp overnight.
03
Peak Circuit for Acclimatization Shipton’s Camp
After breakfast, we start the peak circuit to help with acclimatization. Ascend to a steep ridge through Kami Hut, Hausberg Col and Two Tarns Lake. This takes approximately 4 hours walk through some of the most spectacular scenery. Next, we return to Shipton’s Camp.
Peak Circuit for Acclimatization Shipton’s Camp
After breakfast, we start the peak circuit to help with acclimatization. Ascend to a steep ridge through Kami Hut, Hausberg Col and Two Tarns Lake. This takes approximately 4 hours walk through some of the most spectacular scenery. Next, we return to Shipton’s Camp.
04
Kami Hut 4439 m (14,649 ft.)
Indeed, today we ascend to Kami Hut, the base camp for the North Face. Normally, this takes just 2hrs.
Kami Hut 4439 m (14,649 ft.)
Indeed, today we ascend to Kami Hut, the base camp for the North Face. Normally, this takes just 2hrs.
05
Firmin Tower
Firstly, arise early, usually between 4 and 5 am. Then, depart at 5:30 for the base of North Face, which normally takes 45 mins to 1 hour. We may climb the first couple of pitches by headlamp. This section is rocky and frozen scree. Continue walking until you reach the starting point of rock climbing, (10 ropes of 50m). Spend a night at Firmin Tower.
Firmin Tower
Firstly, arise early, usually between 4 and 5 am. Then, depart at 5:30 for the base of North Face, which normally takes 45 mins to 1 hour. We may climb the first couple of pitches by headlamp. This section is rocky and frozen scree. Continue walking until you reach the starting point of rock climbing, (10 ropes of 50m). Spend a night at Firmin Tower.
06
Summit Batian 5199 m (17,257 ft.) to Shipton’s Camp
There are about 3 difficult pitches, all fairly short, in the 5.8 to 5.9 range. Above this, easier terrain leads to a few more pitches and, finally, the west ridge. From this point, we continue on easy, but still exposed, rock to Shipton’s Notch. This is a prominent gash in the summit ridge. Another pitch, then mixed 4th and easy 5th class rock leads to the Batian summit. Following the summit, we abseil down to the bottom and walk to Shipton’s Camp for dinner and overnight.
Summit Batian 5199 m (17,257 ft.) to Shipton’s Camp
There are about 3 difficult pitches, all fairly short, in the 5.8 to 5.9 range. Above this, easier terrain leads to a few more pitches and, finally, the west ridge. From this point, we continue on easy, but still exposed, rock to Shipton’s Notch. This is a prominent gash in the summit ridge. Another pitch, then mixed 4th and easy 5th class rock leads to the Batian summit. Following the summit, we abseil down to the bottom and walk to Shipton’s Camp for dinner and overnight.
