Mount Kenya Climbing: The Gates of Mist, Nelion to Batian

Overview

Crossing the Gates of Mist from Nelion Peak to Batian Peak is a challenging undertaking, even for experienced climbers. The route is often covered in snow, especially in December, and the climb up to Batian Peak is short but steep. Climbers must be prepared to bivouac in Howell’s Hut, as the crossing can take several hours.

It is important to attempt this crossing only in great conditions and with plenty of time. Climbers should be in good physical condition and have experience with rock climbing and rappelling. It is also important to be aware of the altitude and the potential for bad weather.

Clothing and Kit

Trekking clothes to cover the warm humid forests up to the snowline, good hiking boots and a warm lightweight sleeping bag. We provide foam mattresses but bring your own inflatable mat (e.g thermarest or exped) for extra insulation and to use for a potential bivi. Don’t forget head torch and spare batteries, especially since the climb begins and often ends in the dark. Water bottle and flask and snacks are vital, along with suncream and first aid kit.

Wear layers of warm clothes for the summit days and don’t forget waterproofs and windbreakers. A quality belay jacket with hood is important, and leather belay gloves as well as thermal gloves.

For the climb bring your own harness, helmet, a medium rack of sprung cams, hexes and nuts along with 2 slings (long and short), a few prussiks, several screwgate karabiners, a descending device and belay device of your choice, some quickdraws and a cowtail. Crampons (or mini spikes) and walking axe are optional nowadays because the Lewis Glacier has retreated so much but poles are very useful for the trekking.

Safety point about using daisy chains – if you need to make your own personal anchor system for security at belay and rappelling points please note that daisy chains should be clipped end to end for optimal use, and adjustable daisy chains are not recommended as primary anchor attachment.

Group gear will include 2 single 60m ropes, and a collection of climbing protection aids (nuts, cams etc), slings, prussiks and quickdraws but it’s important you arrive self-sufficient and not reliant on the guide’s equipment. You can hire some gear at the base of the mountain but we cannot guarantee the quality.

Bivouac pack

On summit day take a small sack with a lightweight sleeping bag, bivi bag, lightweight mat if possible, etc. Take spare batteries for headtorch, small first aid kit, sun cream, quality sunglasses and if there is a space a micro stove or jetboil.

Footwear

Take a comfortable pair of hiking boots for the trek and a pair of stiffer mountain boots which can take crampons or spikes for crossing the glacier and doing the climb. The sole should be stiff but allow some ‘feel’ for the rock. Rock shoes are an option but probably best for the warm days and for people moving fast and very efficiently. Otherwise they are likely to get wet and your feet will get very cold, so it’s best to keep your options open and take something warm for your feet whatever the case.

Trip highlights

• Arrival
• Nairobi – Naro Moru base camp
• Nairobi – Old Moses Camp
• Shipton’s Camp
• Peak Circuit for Acclimatization Shipton’s Camp
• Austrian Hut (Top Hut)
• Point Lenana Summit
• Nelion and Batian Summit

Day-by-day itinerary

1. Day1
   Arrival

   Arrive from the airport ,meet and greet and then to your transfer 45mins drive to your hotel in the city.Dinner and overnight at best western hotel.

2. Day2
   Nairobi – Naro Moru base camp

   Transfer to Naro Moru river lodge for acclimatization night.Lunch ,dinner and overnight at the lodge.

3. Day3
   Nairobi – Old Moses Camp3300 m (10,890 ft.

   Leave Nairobi at 8:00 am for drive to Nanyuki, which normally takes 4 hours. Then, proceed to Mt Kenya National Park Sirimon gate. After a picnic lunch, we follow the track uphill for 10 kms.  Fork left at the junction to reach Old Moses camp, situated at 3,300 m. The ascent from Sirimon gate to Old Moses is 690 m.

4. Day4
   Shipton’s Camp4236 m (13,898 ft.

   During this day, we will hike through the Liki Valley via Mackinder Valley to Shipton’s Camp for 7 – 8 hours. Of course lunch is served on route. At Shipton’s Camp, you will have splendid views of the north faces of Nelion and Batian peaks. Enjoy your well earned dinner here and camp overnight.

5. Day5
   Peak Circuit for Acclimatization Shipton’s Camp

   After breakfast, we start the peak circuit to help with acclimatization.  Ascend to a steep ridge through Kami Hut, Hausberg Col and Two Tarns Lake. This takes approximately 4 hours walk through some of the most spectacular scenery. Next, we return to Shipton’s Camp.

6. Day6
   Austrian Hut (Top Hut)4700 m (15,510 ft.

   Today, we trek to Austrian Hut, located just east of Point Lenana. This will be your base before climbing Nelion.

7. Day7
   Point Lenana Summit4985 m (16,355 ft.), Austrian Hut

   Firstly, we arise at 2:00 am, and have tea and biscuits while getting prepared. Leave at 3:00 a.m. for the Lenana summit. This section is a long, hard slog, and the path is indistinct in places. Continue walking across tough scree, until you come to Harris Tarn.

   Continue up the north face of Point Lenana, reaching the summit after about 45 minutes. Sunrise is at 6:30 a.m. After enjoying the views and taking photos, we descend to Austrian hut at 4700 m. This will be your base camp before climbing Nelion at 5100 m.

   NB: If you are a quick climber, you can continue onto the Batian summit in one day.

8. Day8
   Nelion and Batian Summit5199 m (17,257 ft.), Austrian Hut

   Arising early, we can reach the base of the route to the summit in about an hour. Crampons are generally used to cross the small glacier. It is not steep but the snow is often quite firm. See above technical details. Traverse the Gate Of Mist to Batian summit. Spend some time to congratulate yourself and enjoy the views. Then, return to Nelion and Austrian Hut. The summit day is fairly long, 10 to 12 hours for the round trip. Dinner and overnight is spent at Austrian Hut.
9. Day9
   Met Station3048 m (10,000 ft.

   After breakfast, descend to the south to Met Station. Subsequently, spend the night here.
10. Day10
    Nairobi

    Continue walking down through the indigenous forest to meet up with your transport back to Nairobi. Finally, you will arrive in Nairobi in the late evening.End of the trip.

What's included