Mount Kenya Climbing: Nelion South-East Face

Overview

Nelion is a 5188-meter peak on Mount Kenya, the second highest peak in the country. It is a popular climbing destination, but it is not for the faint of heart. The climb is technically challenging and requires good fitness and acclimatization.

The standard route to Nelion is the Southeast Face. This route is typically climbed in one long day, but it is possible to bivouac on the summit in the Howell Hut and descend the next day. The best months to climb Nelion are December to March, when the weather is generally drier and sunnier.

The crux of the climb is UIAA IV- or UK hard severe or American 5.5. This means that there is a single pitch that is difficult to climb, but the rest of the route is less difficult. However, the altitude can make the climb feel more difficult than it actually is.

The route is about 400 vertical meters and doesn’t follow a direct line. This means that route finding can be tricky in low visibility. A lot of the route is roped-up steep scrambling and running belays on steep rock, with the longest pitches around 50-60 meters.

The descent is a series of abseils following a slightly different line to the ascent and using bolted rings in the rock. It is important to be competent in abseiling unassisted and be completely familiar with using descenders.

Here is a summary of the key points:

• Nelion is a technically challenging climb that requires good fitness and acclimatization.
• standard route is the Southeast Face, which is typically climbed in one long day.
• The crux of the climb is UIAA IV-, but the altitude can make the climb feel more difficult.
• The route is about 400 vertical meters and doesn’t follow a direct line.
• The descent is a series of abseils.