Mount Kenya Climbing: North Face Standard Route to Batian

Overview

NORTH FACE MT KENYA CLIMB – June to October

Up Old Moses Liki Route and Down Chogoria Technical Details

The North Face standard route starts from Kami Hut, at 4300 m, after Shipton’s Camp. If you are planning to get to the top, you need to take 7 to 8 days. When taking the North Face, you will have to overnight at Firmin Tower, either putting up a tent or bivouac. If you wish to traverse the Gate Of Mist to Nelion, you will need crampons.

The North Face route starts from Shipton’s Camp or from Kami Hut at 0330 hrs. It is a 2 hr. hike to the base of climbing with the start being Grade IV+. The first two pitches are easy for scrambling; another Grade III, then Grade 11 and a Grade IV to get to the amphitheatre. From there, it is an easy walk to the base of Firmin Tower. Two routes emerge here; one route up the Tower is quite tricky and about Grade V in a small gully. The other is around the tower, easier but longer.

After that, you come to the knife edge. Here, do a Grade IV+ pitch and another Grade IV before you come to a traverse. Consequently, it leads you to the Shipton’s notch. Rocks are quite loose and need to be handled with care. After you are through with Shipton’s notch, you will then reach Batian at 5,199 m.

After summiting, you then abseil down and do a lot of down climbing. This is the longest climb with 23 pitches. This route is best done from June to early October.

Trip highlights

• Nairobi – Old Moses Camp
• Shipton’s Camp
• Peak Circuit for Acclimatization Shipton’s Camp
• Kami Hut
• Firmin Tower
• Summit Batian
• Meru Bandas
• Nairobi

Day-by-day itinerary

1. Day1
   Nairobi – Old Moses Camp3300 m (10,890 ft.

   Leave Nairobi at 8:00 am for drive to Nanyuki, which normally takes 4 hours. Then, proceed to Mt Kenya National Park Sirimon gate. After a picnic lunch, we follow the track uphill for 10 kms.  Fork left at the junction to reach Old Moses camp, situated at 3,300 m. The ascent from Sirimon gate to Old Moses is 690 m.

2. Day2
   Shipton’s Camp4236 m (13,898 ft.

   During this day, we will hike through the Liki Valley via Mackinder Valley to Shipton’s Camp for 7 – 8 hours. Of course lunch is served on route. At Shipton’s Camp, you will have splendid views of the north faces of Nelion and Batian peaks. Enjoy your well earned dinner here and camp overnight.

3. Day3
   Peak Circuit for Acclimatization Shipton’s Camp

   After breakfast, we start the peak circuit to help with acclimatization.  Ascend to a steep ridge through Kami Hut, Hausberg Col and Two Tarns Lake. This takes approximately 4 hours walk through some of the most spectacular scenery. Next, we return to Shipton’s Camp.

4. Day4
   Kami Hut4,439 m (14,649 ft.)

   Indeed, today we ascend to Kami Hut, the base camp for the North Face. Normally, this takes just 2hrs.

5. Day5
   Firmin Tower

   Firstly, arise early, usually between 4 and 5 am. Then, depart at 5:30 for the base of North Face, which normally takes 45 mins to 1 hour. We may climb the first couple of pitches by headlamp. This section is rocky and frozen scree.  Continue walking until you reach the starting point of rock climbing, (10 ropes of 50m). Spend a night at Firmin Tower.

6. Day6
   Summit Batian5199 m (17,257 ft.) to Shipton’s Camp

   There are about 3 difficult pitches, all fairly short, in the 5.8 to 5.9 range. Above this, easier terrain leads to a few more pitches and, finally, the west ridge. From this point, we continue on easy, but still exposed, rock to Shipton’s Notch. This is a prominent gash in the summit ridge. Another pitch, then mixed 4th and easy 5th class rock leads to the Batian summit. Following the summit, we abseil down to the bottom and walk to Shipton’s Camp for dinner and overnight.

7. Day7
   Meru Bandas3000 m (9900 ft.

   We descend using the Chogoria Route because it is considered to be the most spectacular on the peak. The trek out begins with a climb up to Simba Col, then down to Meru Mount Kenya Bandas following the Gorges Valley. Meanwhile, we leave the high moorlands and enter into the forest belt which surrounds Mount Kenya. Hence, we are likely to see Cape Buffalo, as well as Bush Buck or Water Buck, and tracks of other wild animals. It will take about 7 hours to reach the bandas.

8. Day8
   Nairobi

   After morning breakfast, continue walking down through the bamboo and indigenous forest to Bairunyi. Finally, meet up with your transport for your trip back to Nairobi.

Trip cost per person nett 2300